Autumn 23

Made from the dried, powdered and distilled roots of bearded iris, orris is one of perfume’s rarest ingredients. After three to four years of flowering, the iris roots are dug by hand and matured for several years. These are powdered, mixed with water and steam distilled to produce a semi-solid oil.

The frilled, lacy umbels of wild carrot create that pale, high summer froth along hedgerows, in meadows and coastal dunes - and though their roots are edible, they are not as palatable as the plant's familiar cultivar. A sweet, earthy, woody oil can be extracted from the plant's seeds.

Our hay absolute derives from the sun-dried grasses Lolium perenne. Cut at the height of summer, these grasses are left to dry in the sun as hay - a process that releases coumarin from the green shoots as they turn.

Once cured, the hay undergoes solvent extraction, yielding a dark and viscous liquid with a herbal, honeyed base.

Our rock rose grows wild on the plains of Almaden de la Plata outside Seville, Spain. In late summer, the leafy stems of the plant are sickle harvested and plunged into hot carbonated water. This mixture is distilled to obtain a honeyed, amber resin - labdanum.

Our Egyptian basil grand vert is renowned for its high linalool composition and its distinctive aniseed notes. The leaves are cut and immediately distilled - if they are allowed to dry, the scent is largely lost.

Benzoin Siam is a balsamic resin taken from the bark of the styrax tree, growing wild in the Annamite mountains of Laos. In September, a v-shaped cut is made in the tree bark, and brittle white ‘tears’ of benzoin resin accumulate over three-weeks. This process is known as ‘tapping’.

Grown on Calabrian hills overlooking the Ionian Sea, the fruit is harvested by hand and the oil extracted at source. The La Face family planted their first bergamot in the 1930s and have been mastering the craft of producing citrus oils ever since.

Our red cedar wood (also known as red juniper) is grown and harvested in its native Virginia, USA. The oil is steam distilled directly from a cabinet maker’s offcuts. It shares the classic woody notes of atlas cedar, but introduces a distinctive ‘pencil’ facet.

Ffern’s geranium, Pelargonium graveolens, is also known as the rose geranium. Legend has it that this flower was created when the prophet Mohammed, after bathing in a river, laid his shirt upon a mallow branch to dry. The mallow was so honoured that it transformed into the beautiful rose geranium.

Jasmine grandiflorum is one of the most sought after ingredients in perfumery. To make a kilogram of the absolute takes eight million flowers - these delicate, night-flowering blooms are hand-picked at dawn between June and September in the Indian Himalayas, where the flowers are sacred.

The La Faces are a third-generation citrus farming family, growing our lemons on the northeastern tip of Sicily - just across the 3km straight of Messina and in sight of our bergamot on the Calabrian shores. The fruit is picked by hand, and the rinds cold pressed on site.

Ffern mandarins are harvested in the months before ripening. Whilst still green, they are cold pressed on site to preserve their delicate top notes. The scent is notably sharper and more floral than their ripe counterparts.

Our neroli oil is extracted from the blossom of bitter Seville Orange trees on Cape Bon in northern Tunisia. The blossoms are hand-picked in the spring at daybreak, once dew has formed. The flowers are immediately pressed and distilled.

Our nutmeg grows on the Banda islands of eastern Indonesia. The fruit is harvested with handheld telescopic pickers and left to dry in the shade - the seed oil is then steam distilled at source.

Scentless when fresh and native to Asia, patchouli is a member of the Lamiaceae or Mint family. Our patchouli is hand-harvested on the Indonesian Island of Java. It’s then dried in the shade and briefly fermented, helping to break down the cell walls before the copper still hydrodistillation.

Timut pepper is a berry, plucked from the steep mountains of the Mahabharats in southern Nepal. It is made up of a hard, bitter black seed encased in a pericarp casing like the zest of a tangerine. Ffern timut pepper is extracted using the CO2 process.

We chose Haitian vetiver over Javan competitors for its fresh, sparkling notes, and because the root provides sustainable employment for south Haitian communities. One year after planting, the roots are excavated, washed, cut, and sun-dried before they can be steam distilled at source.

Birch tar is produced by the purification and re-distillation of crude birch oil, which is itself obtained by the slow distillation of birch bark. Our birch bark is a byproduct of the wood industry in the United States, with the distillation process also taking place in the USA.

We press our sweet orange oil from the rind of cold-pressed Hamlin oranges grown in the mineral-rich state of Minas Gerais in Brazil. Hamlin orange trees are among the most tolerant of cold and their fruit comes early, the season beginning in October.

Though fig is a ‘mute’ plant (you cannot extract its essence) after six months of hard work, Fern’s nose created a natural fig accord. Blending blackcurrant bud, osmanthus, petitgrain, red cedar, davana, galbanum and sweet tonka bean, the result is an intoxicating celebration of fig leaves.