In late spring the elder tree blooms. Umbels of delicate, cloud-like flowers, that speckle the hedgerows and perfume the lanes with something sweet, green, lightly floral and sharp.

This season we have collaborated with Michelin-starred chef Skye Gyngell to create our most culinary fragrance yet: Spring 22.

In the summer of 2021 we visited Skye’s restaurant, Spring in Somerset House. Against the delicious olfactory backdrop of her kitchen, we discussed the shared artistry of a chef and nose; how each works to create a lively interplay between the finest natural ingredients.

We talked with Skye about our concept for last year’s fragrance - the freshness of a springtime greenhouse - from which we were eager to bring forward the light, floral notes, while building upon the culinary elements of basil and pink peppercorn.

Skye’s thoughts turned at once to two ingredients: elderflower, the floral embodiment of soft Maytime breezes; and green gooseberry for its sharp and bittersweet tang which, though belonging to the month of July, seems to encapsulate those first tender shoots of March.

Intrigued by the combination, we readily accepted the challenge. We were aware, however, that while in the kitchen, gooseberry ice cream is gooseberry ice cream, things can be more complicated in natural perfumery. Gooseberry oil cannot be extracted directly, and elderflower absolute is deep and musky, evoking hay and tobacco - far removed from those delicate, lacey umbels. Undeterred, Elodie set to work.

First to the gooseberry. Having experimented with several ingredients, she landed upon blackcurrant bud. Though it did resemble plump, juicy gooseberry, it lacked the sharp, almost sour facet we were searching for. Sadly we had to let it go.

With the gooseberry proving elusive, Elodie moved onto the elderflower. Starting from a base of elderflower absolute, she added peppermint and lime. These enhanced the absolute, bringing a zest and lightness to its opening. We were close, but not quite there. 

After weeks of trials, Elodie made one final alteration: buchu, a diminutive plant native to the lower elevation mountains of western South Africa. The result was staggering. At once, the buchu brought to life the elderflower and even conjured our elusive gooseberry. Unexpected, but clear as day. Skye’s vision realised - an elderflower and gooseberry accord at the heart of our Spring fragrance, amidst the citrus notes, quiet florals, greens and sparkling pink peppercorn.